What's Old is New

By my calculations, I've been going to Ebisu for twenty-five years. My sister Nancy took me there and it was my first taste of sushi.
Well, they took six months to renovate, and what a change! The place looks beautiful, the bar is less crowded, the tatami room is but a memory. New menus and fancy plates. The seaweed salad now comes from the kitchen, not the sushi chef, and is bejeweled with slivers of radish. Sapporo is on tap. Even the white clouds of pickled ginger seem more tender than the pink stuff of a bygone era.
My favorite nosh is the 49er Roll: exquisite salmon and the thinnest of lemon slices wrapped around white rice and a filling of avocado, shiso and tobiko. Do also treat yourself to shiro maguro nigiri topped with garlic. And say hello to Steve-san for me...